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| The origins of storied Gravensteen Castle in Ghent date back to the 12th century. |
The two historic cities of Ghent and Bruges in northwest Belgium are memorable stops on a Belgium itinerary, with both dating from the Middle Ages and sharing their architectural and artistic treasures with today’s visitors by virtue of being spared major destruction during the last two World Wars. The easy way to reach them is by a one-hour journey northwest from Brussels on the Belgium National Railways to Bruges, near the North Sea, and half that distance to Ghent.
Our Bruges city guide Ann Plovic described the people of Bruges as “always fairly conservative” in comparison to Ghent, which “was more of an industrial revolution town.” Unfortunately, according to Plovic, the close proximity of Belgian cities means many visitors choose to stay in Brussels and come to Bruges and Ghent on day trips rather than immerse themselves as overnighters. The day-trippers miss much of the local vibrancy that fills the towns starting in late afternoon after the tourist buses depart.
The entire city center of Bruges was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000, in part for its remarkably preserved brick Gothic architecture that extends throughout the area. Our Lady’s Church, started in the 900s and rebuilt from the 1300s to the 1600s, is the highest brick tower in Europe at 122 meters (400 feet) in height. It houses Michelangelo’s revered sculpture of the Madonna and Child. The Bruges Town Hall on the Burg Square dates from 1376. The St. John’s Hospital, a campus complex run by religious orders over centuries to care for sick and poor people, was opened in the year 1180.
Hilda Proot, our city guide in Ghent, showed us the 12th-century Romanesque St. Bavo Cathedral, which she described as “the richest decorated church in Belgium.” She also showed us frescoes in the church crypt, uncovered beneath plaster just prior to World War II, that were painted around 1500 by unknown artists, depicting scenes of pilgrims who stopped in this church to worship on their way to Jerusalem.
Ghent’s St. Bavo’s cathedral also contains Europe’s most famous painting of the 15th century, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, painted by Ghent native Jan Van Eyck in 1438. The colors of the piece are vivid, and the main scene reveals medieval images of Belgian cityscapes in the background and the deep reverence Flemish people have held for religious subjects.
Ghent visitors also learn about this writer’s personal favorite, the Gravensteen Castle, started in the 12th century, abandoned by the counts of Flanders after the 14th century, and later used as a prison for Flemish rebels by Spanish conquerors in the 16th century.
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| A canal boat trip around Bruges |
In Ghent we also visited the Design Museum in the city center for a career retrospective of Peter Behrens, a German master of Art Nouveau and industrial design. All of Behrens’ works were represented in the Ghent exhibition, including many pieces from the design of his own 1901 home in Darmstadt, Germany, for which he designed every furnishing and fixture.
Our hotel choices in Bruges included the Bonobo Apartment Hotel, where hosts Hans and Magda are wonderful proprietors who offer guidance, tip sheets on Belgium, and personal assistance. The property, within 10 minutes’ walk of Bruges’ main square, has several spacious apartments, including galley kitchens, with outdoor patios affording a view of the nearby Notre Dame church tower.
Also in Bruges we visited the Hotel Montanus, which has a gourmet restaurant serving generous buffet breakfasts, included with the room, and dinners, which are optional. The rooms at this small hotel each have an outdoor patio table and chairs, facing a garden with a sculpted fountain.
Thanks to the helpful Ghent tourist office, located in the square opposite Gravensteen Castle, we were fortunate to book an apartment in Atgenesis B&B, hosted by owner Gaby De Schepper in her home, half a block from the River Leie in the city center. Gaby is an active artist and designer who went to art school in Prague, and part of the enjoyment of staying in one of her two apartment suites is visiting her downstairs design studio and hearing about some of her own travel adventures.
Another excellent accommodation in Ghent, convenient to the nearby central rail station, is the four-star NH Hotel St. Pieters The front desk staff provides excellent business services at little cost.
All of the above properties included free Wi-Fi.