by Nikki Bayley, The Telegraph, January 15, 2020
A modern, multicultural city between mountains, sea and skyscrapers
Vancouver easily earns its reputation as one of the world’s most beautiful cities, surrounded by the sea and hugged by soaring mountains – reflected in seemingly endless gleaming glass skyscrapers. But it’s not just good looks that make Vancouver worth a second glance: there’s a dynamic culinary scene, thanks to an international blend of chefs bringing their own recipes and techniques to a bounty of superb products, from the lush farmlands beyond the city to seafood from its clean, cold waters. Add in a comprehensive cultural landscape of galleries, museums and theatre, and a shopper’s paradise of big name designers and emerging talent, and you see why there’s plenty to explore beyond the skyline.
Vancouver is a relatively modern city: it was incorporated in 1886, but for countless generations before colonisation, it was home to a thriving Indigenous Coast Salish population; dig a little deeper and you’ll be rewarded with insight into their complex past and dynamic, empowered present.
Hot right now . . .
Nikki Bayley, our destination expert, offers her top tips on the hottest things to do and places to eat this season.
Vancouver loves to snack at happy hour, and there’s nowhere better to enjoy Vancouver Island oysters paired with icy wine from the Okanagan than at Joe Forte's (777 Thurlow St; 00 1 604 669 1940) popular roof terrace from 3pm-6pm.
If Vancouver has a religion, it’s yoga. Join devotees at a Mat Collective outdoor session on Kitsilano Beach. Outdoor sessions are free and run until August 31. You can rent a mat from their head office.
Take the train to Bridgeport Station to eat, drink and people-watch at the Richmond Night Market (8351 River Rd; 00 1 604 244 8448), a crush of some 300 food stalls and market vendors. Look out for Dragon Beard Candy, tornado potatoes-on-a-stick, and multi-coloured rainbow cheese toast.
48 hours in. . . Vancouver
Carb up for the day at locavore haven, Forage (1300 Robson St; 00 1 604 661 1400); try the wonderfully over-the-top double-fried pork cutlet with egg and house-made pickles. Stroll downhill to Stanley Park to meet your First Nations guide from Talaysay Tours (00 1 604 628 8555), an authentic Indigenous company who specialise in outdoor cultural tours of Stanley Park and the Salish Sea. Try a 90-minute Talking Trees tour or immerse yourself in a three-hour Forest Therapy Walk, connecting with nature through your senses.
Vancouver is rightfully known as one of the best places in the world to feast on pan-Asian cuisine, so either make it ramen for lunch at Marutama (780 Bidwell St; 00 1 604 688 8837) where they make the noodles fresh in-house, and the broth is a silky collagen-rich chicken base, or try sushi at Miko (1335 Robson St; 00 1 604 681 0339), a West End institution with signed Canucks hockey player photos on the wall and a superb menu of sushi, sashimi and robata grill favourites (try the BBQ salmon neck and the chef’s choice sashimi).
The free shuttle bus from Canada Place to Grouse Mountain runs until September; climb aboard and explore the thrills of Grouse Mountain (6400 Nancy Greene Way; 00 1 604 980 9311) from the Skyride, North America’s longest aerial tramway system up to the summit, to the Eye of the Wind turbine (the only one in the world that allows visitors to travel up to the glass viewing pod), and forested trails. Embrace peak Canadiana and chomp on a Beaver Tail (a fried flat doughnut, dipped in maple sugar).
Make a pit-stop at Tap & Barrel (76-1055 Canada Pl; 00 1 604 235 9827) under Douglas Coupland’s pixelated Digital Orca statue, and enjoy an all-B.C. menu with a panoramic view of the water and mountains. Try an Empress G&T made with colour-changing gin from Victoria Distillers.
Suitably rested, indulge in a quintessentially West Coast experience with dinner at Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar (845 Burrard St; 00 1 604 642 2900) where multi-award-winning chef Alex Chen deftly works magic with his seafood-focused menu which looks as beautiful as it tastes; if halibut from Haida Gwaii is in season, snap it up!
Don’t want to go to bed? Visit Gastown and take a seat at the bar at Pidgin (350 Carrall St; 001 604 620 9400) to explore their seasonally changing cocktail and sake list; the One Eyed Samurai is an irresistibly Instagrammable watermelon-infused tequila pleaser.
Caffeinate at Revolver (325 Cambie St; 00 1 604 558 4444) where you can choose from a variety of beans and brewing methods including Chemex, French press and espresso to create the perfect cup. Pair that with lemon-blueberry-basil scones or buttery bacon and egg brioche from Purebread (159 W Hastings St; 00 1 604 563 8060), then take a taxi to the Plaza of Nations water ferry stop; buy a day pass, and enjoy a scenic sail on the Aqua Bus or False Creek Ferries through False Creek to Granville Island.
Arrive in time to check in for the 10.30am kayak tour with Ecomarine (1668 Duranleau Street; 00 1 604 689 7575) and see the city from the water, learning more about its heritage and neighbourhoods, whilst spotting seals, eagles and herons.
Lunch at Edible Canada Bistro (1596 Johnstone St, 00 1 604 682 6681), where you can feast on an all-Canadian menu such as Humboldt squid with black garlic and yuzu aioli, maple-glazed wild salmon, and duck confit poutine.
Although it's best known for the foodie abundance of its Public Market, the rest of Granville Island is a hub for artists, crafters and designers of all stripes; browse everything from unique jewellery at Forge and Form (1334 Cartwright St; 00 1 604 684 6298) to sake made from rice grown in the nearby Fraser Valley from the Artisan Sakemaker (1339 Railspur Alley; 00 1 604 685 7253).
Using your ferry pass sail to Yaletown to soak up the sights in the city’s most chic neighbourhood full of pavement cafés, warehouse flats and one-off stores such as Fine Finds Boutique (1014 Mainland St; 00 1 604 669 8325) for local designers and artists, Revolucion Cigars & Fine Gifts (1063 Mainland St; 00 1 604 662 4427) for barware, wallets, tobacco products, pocket squares and ties, and Barking Babies (1188 Homer St; 00 1 604 647 2275) for your four-pawed friend back home to pick up 'doggles' (pet eyewear), bow ties, bandanas and other doggy inessentials.
Leave early for dinner tonight so you can enjoy a cocktail at the bar of Botanist (1038 Canada Pl; 00 1 604 695 5500). Try Into the Aether, which arrives on a billowing cloud of dry ice and appears to float, thanks to magnets. Then, take a taxi to the Mackenzie Room (415 Powell St; 00 1 604 253 0705) for a night of no-decisions delight over a chef-curated, five-course, wine-paired feast of whatever is in season and delicious, from the plant-and-seafood-forward bounty of the Pacific Northwest.
Plan ahead with post-dinner reservations for the Shameful Tiki Lounge (4362 Main St), where you can indulge in vintage Tiki cocktails in one of the city’s most fun and friendly bars.
Where to stay . . .
Fairmont Pacific Rim may have a modern exterior, but inside there’s a traditional warm welcome. Chilled live guitar or piano-playing singers croon daily, and the lobby rings with the sound of ice crashing in cocktail shakers and flirty conversation. Decadent rooms and suites come with ravishing harbour views. The spa is one of the city’s best, with wine-based vinotherapies and treatments with Canadian ingredients. Cosy outdoor cabana beds, fire pits, a pool and hot tubs overlook the 'sails' of Canada Place and the North Shore mountains.
Doubles from CAD 459 (£282). 1038 Canada Pl; 00 1 604 695 5300
Ever wanted to stay in an art gallery? Now’s your chance. The Listel’s walls and public spaces shine with original modern and indigenous artworks. The bold First Nations artworks on display will likely whet your appetite to seek out more. Eco-initiatives in this ‘zero waste’ boutique hotel include refillable carafes from the water stations on each floor, recycled paper in the loos, and solar panels on the roof; but the thread counts remain reassuringly high. Taste Canada coast-to-coast at the superb Forage restaurant and fun Timber gastro-pub.
Doubles from CAD 199 (£125). 1300 Robson St; 00 1 604 684 8461
Enrich your cultural knowledge of the local tribes via an immersive stay at Skwachàys Lodge. High above the front door, a 40-ft totem pole and striking carvings identify this First Nations’ project. The lobby gallery displays Aboriginal art (available for purchase). Each room is an art installation in its own right; themes include traditional tribal images, such as the raven, eagle and orca whale. Expect top-of-the-range comforts, from first-rate mattresses to walk-in showers. This is a chance to meet and talk to First Nation peoples; not just the staff, but perhaps the artists, who have studios in the building.
Double from £60. 31 West Pender St; 00 1 604 687 3589
What to bring home . . .
Head to innovative designer John Fluevog’s flagship store in Gastown (65 Water St; 00 1 604 688 6228), a treasure trove of funky footwear as worn by Madonna and Beyoncé, to pick up a pair of Munster heels.
Vancouver’s craft distillery scene is thriving. Use that 1L duty free allowance on a bottle of Odd Society’s (1725 Powell Stt; 00 1 604 559 6745) Prospector 100 per cent northern BC rye whisky, or Sons of Vancouver (1431 Crown St; 00 1 778 340 5388) Amaretto sweetened with BC blackberry honey.
When to go . . .
Although it’s an excellent year-round destination (and from November until April, you can add on a day skiing or boarding on the local ski hills), Vancouver shines at its brightest from April until October, when the flowers are in bloom, the sunsets long and late, and patio bars are spilling over. Summer festivals are too numerous to count; however, winter brings January’s tasty city-wide Dine Out Festival and February the prestigious International Wine Festival.
Temperatures are mild with summer highs in the mid-20s, and winter rarely dropping below zero. But rain is common year-round with October to April getting the majority of rainy days. Think layers and always have a brolly.
Know before you go . . .
Tourist board information: 00 1 604 683 2000; tourismvancouver.com
Emergency fire, police and ambulance: 911
British Consulate-General: 1111 Melville St, Suite 800, Vancouver, British Columbia V6E 3V6; 00 1 604 683 4421; gov.uk
Flight time: (from UK) London to Vancouver is approximately 9.5 hours
Time difference: -8 hours
Currency: Canadian dollars
International dialling code: +1
Local laws and etiquette
• Always have your passport and driver’s license with you when driving in Canada, in case you get stopped by police.
• You can turn right at a red traffic light (provided you come to a complete stop first, there is no oncoming traffic and no contradictory sign saying 'no turn on red').
• In Canadian cities, you have to park with your car pointing in the direction of the traffic on the correct side of the road, otherwise you will be fined.
• Avoid parking within 5m of a fire hydrant.
• Tipping is expected for very nearly everything with tip prompts on card payment machines usually at 15 per cent, 18 per cent and 20 per cent.
• Unlike most North American cities, Vancouver does not have Uber. Vancouver currently does not have any ride-sharing companies and suffers from a distinct lack of licensed taxis. Local transit is more than adequate, or book a taxi via the Yellow Cab Vancouver app.
• Transit is reliable, plentiful and inexpensive. The Translink system of bus, train and seabus accepts contactless Visa and Mastercard credit cards and Apple Pay, Google Pay and Samsung Pay. Paying with a credit card or mobile device allows you to transfer across the system; you'll have 90 minutes on bus, SkyTrain, and SeaBus, and 180 minutes on the West Coast Express.
Nikki Bayley moved to Vancouver in 2012 after falling in love with its beaches, mountains and proximity to amazing Okanagan wines. Nowadays you can either find Nikki toasting her new home in the wine country or restaurant-hopping through Vancouver.
Experience Vancouver with The Telegraph